Alice in Germany

As the number of German flags on the streets increases so does the explanatory, almost apologetic tone running through the German press, always with a weary eye on international opinion. What does this mean? At home, in Frankfurt, Thomas roles his eyes when it is raised in the news: ‘this again’. He like many Germans of his generation are sick of living under the shadow of their grandparents crimes, they do not want to hear about ‘it’. Thomas turns away and strolls onto the balcony.

After the Germans beat Argentina I feel like I am back in Delhi. Everyone who has a car is in it, waving their flags, hanging out of the windows and sitting on their horns. My American friend texts me at 1 am from his apartment: Whoever invented the car horn should be shot.

On a major road the cheering pedestrians force the cars, their horns and flags into a bottle neck. Each car must come to a virtual stop before being let through while the happy partiers hang onto each car in turn rocking it vigorously from side to side. Their excitement rose when a police van must pass through their man made gateway. They crowd the van with so much enthusiasm I get a bit nervous but when the police van stops bouncing up and down and is allowed to drive on I see the police are laughing and smiling. The German flag is prominently displayed in their back windscreen.

This outpouring of support for Germany has surprised everyone here. They do not know what to make of it. ‘It was never like this in the past’ everyone is quick to inform me.

A journalist in the Spiegel claims the display of the flag does not represent a rise in German patriotism but rather the ultimate party accessory. German leaders plead for the good vibes to continue after the world cup, but Bruno’s friend comments that when Germany loses ‘things can get back to normal and good old pessimism will return’.

Walking through Frankfurt on the way to the Australian Bar to watch the Germany vs. Italy game, is like walking along a deserted beach with the tide pulled back so far you know the crash will be huge. Every bar I pass, every café, has a TV outside and people crowded around them, yet the silence of waiting is huge. Police cars line the streets, but the police are not patrolling. In full riot gear, batons, guns, bullet proof vests, they hover around the TVs. The city has emptied and everyone is waiting for what will be the beginning of the end.

Germany has lost now and the Germans are resigned. When Australia lost we whined and winged long and hard in the Australia Bar. The Italian had faked the trip, they were actors, the umpires were crap and biased, they had it in for us. When the siren went on the Germany game the city went silent. There were no tantrums and the tears dried quickly, ‘oh well’ people exhaled in lifts, in tea rooms, in offices. This is Germany after all and they are used to losing things.

‘It’s sad about Germany’ I comment to a colleague at work.
‘Yes’ he say’s. Then (after the normal ramble ‘it was never this patriotic in the past etc. etc.’) ‘it is not so sad for me, but for my 8 year old son’.
‘Oh?’
‘Yes, he cried and cried and then this morning he was still upset. We are supposed but be going to Italy for a holiday and he is refusing to go. My daughter is only three but she loved waving her flag and to sing a song she made up: Ich liebe Deutschland ’.

My Doctor’s son was sad as well. He made a German flag out of lego especially for the game. ‘It was the first time I held a German flag in my hands’ he comments.
‘Oh’ I say although am not really sure if a bunch of red, yellow and black lego banged together count as a flag.